A Winter Day Trek to Dolina Pięciu Stawów: Sunshine, Frost & Five Perfect Ponds
 |
| Wielki Staw |
Getting There: Zakopane → Palenica Białczańska
Your day starts with a minibus ride from Zakopane. Best go straight to the bus station and climb aboard one of the many Morskie Oko minibuses for this. There is good reason for going to the bus station rather than hopping on a bus as it threads through the town, and that is that they wait until they are full before heading off. If you get on at one of the stops in town, there is a fair chance you will have to stand for the entire journey.
Despite the fact all passengers are embarking on a day in the Tatra Mountains, you might find it bizarre that many of your fellow travellers are dressed in urban fashionware, are elderly, or dragging along pushchairs and a gaggle of sproglet's. Don't be too perplexed, most of them will be spending their day walking along an asphalt road to Morskie Oko, and not on the trail you will be following.
Cost for the journey is currently 15zl (bring cash for this and pay the driver when you exit the bus), and takes around 30 minutes.
A short, scenic journey later, you arrive at Palenica Białczańska, the official trailhead for both Morskie Oko and Dolina Pięciu Stawów. Here you’ll typically hit a small queue to buy your Tatra National Park entrance ticket… unless you were clever and paid online in advance, in which case you can enjoy walking smugly past the line like a VIP. Show your ticket at the booth when you pass.
The Warm-Up: Following the Road to Morskie Oko
The first stretch follows the famous asphalt road toward Morskie Oko, along with roughly seven million other hikers. Don’t panic — solitude is coming. Think of this section as your warm-up, your chance to loosen the legs, and your time to admire the beautiful scenery while secretly harshly judging everyone else’s footwear choices.
There is a small information hut and coffee stop if you fancy a quick break before the first uphill assault.
 |
| Coffee stop and information hut |
The Escape: Turning Off Into Dolina Pięciu Stawów
After the road bends around a bridge, and the Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza waterfall is on your right, look out for a sign for a green trail labelled Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich →.
Turn here.
Instant calm.
The crowds disappear, the noise fades, and suddenly it’s just you, the crunch of frost under your boots, and the soundtrack of rushing water. You are now in the Roztoka Valley (Dolina Roztoka). Lush green spruce forests rise on either side, while the snow dusted high peaks glimmer in the morning sun. It feels like you’ve been granted access to a quieter, more magical version of the Tatras.
 |
| Roztoka valley - a quieter, more magical version of the Tatras. |
The Showstopper: Siklawa Waterfall
This green trail is one of those ones where you gain a little height only to turn a corner and go back downhill again. However, the lovely environment around you is enough to shrug this off. On your right, dramatic sweeping views to Krzyżne and the towering Buczynowe Turnie appear.
After some time you will see an overhead cable which is the supply line for the Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich (mountain hut). Near here the path splits. The black trail to the left goes immediately, in a vertical manner, to the hut. However, stay on the green trail to maximise the wonderful scenery.
Soon you reach Wielka Siklawa, Poland’s tallest waterfall — about 70 metres of thundering watery drama. In early winter it’s particularly spectacular, half liquid, half frozen, and 100% determined to make you feel tiny.
 |
| Feeling tiny at Wielka Siklawa |
 |
| The upper reaches of Wielka Siklawa where the Roztoka stream starts to pour over the granite cliffs |
Arrival in Heaven: The Five Polish Ponds
At the top of the waterfall the landscape opens like a curtain, revealing the first of the famous lakes: Wielki Staw Polski, shimmering like a sheet wind rippled glass in a vast amphitheatre of pale snow brushed mountains.
 |
| Wielki Staw - the source of the Roztoka stream |
 |
| Wielki Staw |
Here begins one of the most beautiful circuits in the Tatras if you have the time and daylight hours. Unfortunately, early winter isn't good for this if you want to get back for the last minibus back to Zakopane. So after lunch at the lake end, branch left towards Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich following the blue trail at the small bridge.
 |
| Small bridge at the head of Wielki Staw Polski |
The Five Polish Ponds
 |
| Looking down on Przedni and Wielki Staw with Siklawa waterfall from Orla Perc |
 |
| Zadni Staw and Czarny Staw in distance viewed from Orla Perc |
Mountain Comfort: Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich
Having swung left at the small bridge at the end of Wielki Staw, the blue trail winds past a small pond and scenic wooden hut. Eventually you’ll reach a bigger, more famous mountain hut — the highest refuge in Poland: Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich. Here you can warm up, tuck into steaming soup or apple pie, and enjoy the spectacular view over Przedni Staw and the surrounding ridges.
 |
| Small scenic wooden hut |
 |
| Small frozen pond beside blue trail |
 |
| Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich on Przedni Staw |
 |
| Schronisko PTTK w Dolinie Pięciu Stawów Polskich |
 |
| Przedni Staw |
The Descent: The Icy Black Trail
To return, follow the black trail located behind the hut down towards the Dolina Roztoka (Roztoka Valley). Initially this airy trail offers wonderful views over towards Krzyżne and Buczynowe Turnie. It’s steep, scenic, and occasionally slippery enough to make you seriously appreciate your microspikes.
 |
| Views across to Krzyżne and Buczynowe Turnie |
Once back on the main valley path, it’s an easy stroll through the forest, accompanied by that satisfying mix of tired legs and smug accomplishment. Be sure to be out of the valley by dusk though, it can get a bit "beary"!
Useful Info for Your Trek
- Distance: ~16 km
- Elevation gain: ~700 metres ish
- Time: 6–8 hours round trip depending on how long you linger at scenic spots
- Difficulty: Moderate to hard (icy terrain can make the ascent to Siklawa very challenging)
- Best time for this version: Early winter, before deep snow cover but after the hordes of summer
- Transport: Frequent minibuses between Zakopane & Palenica Białczańska
- Facilities: Toilets at trailhead, coffee shop on Morskie Oko road, hot food at the mountain hut
Winter Hiking Equipment Checklist
Essential Gear
- Waterproof hiking boots with solid grip
- Microspikes (absolutely essential for Siklawa and the black trail descent)
- Trekking poles
- Warm hat + gloves
- Thermal base layers
- Insulating jacket (fleece or down)
- Waterproof/windproof outer shell
- Waterproof trousers
- Sunglasses (sun on snow = instant squint)
- 1–1.5 L water
- High-energy snacks (nuts, chocolate, bars, the “essential” second chocolate bar)
- Laminated Tatras map - readily available in shops in Zakopane
- Cash for minibus fares
Comments
Post a Comment