24 hours in Wroclaw: lamplighters, dwarfs and divine architecture

The beautiful pastel buildings of the Rynek, Wrocław

If you are a return visitor to Kraków, you might be looking to explore other areas to broaden your experience of Poland. This is where you could consider Wrocław as an option.

Wrocław (pronounced “Vrots-wav” if you want to impress the locals and confuse your GPS) is Poland’s best-kept secret—unless you count the 300+ dwarfs who’ve been whispering about it for years. Nestled on the Oder River, it is uniquely endowed with islands and bridges in amongst spires and historic neighbourhoods. Indeed for many, it is referred to as the Venice of the north.

In my opinion therefore, Wrocław is perfect for a whirlwind 24-hour adventure from Krakow.

So strap yourself in, and read on for a run through of our mad 24 hour venture to Wrocław from Kraków.

Getting there: first class and Prague vibes

We’d have left earlier, but apparently every family in Poland had the same idea—returning home en masse from Kraków after the school holidays. So we set off around noon, nestled in first class like royalty (or at least like people who enjoy legroom and fewer crisps on the seat is the reality). Three hours later, we arrived at Wrocław Główny, a station so grand it made us briefly question whether we’d accidentally ended up in Prague!

Cue the first “ooh” of the trip.

(Use the either the official Polish Railways site or E-podroznik to buy train tickets)

Check-in and Rynek revelations

Our hotel, the Qubus, was perfectly plonked in the old town. Bags were dumped with the urgency of people who’d just spotted a Gothic spire. We headed straight for the Rynek, and wow—Wrocław doesn’t do subtle.

The Rynek is a pastel architectural feast. The colourful facades—peach, pistachio, and the occasional theatrical crimson—give the square a cheerful air, but beneath the surface lies a story of meticulous restoration. After WWII left much of the city in ruins, the Rynek was rebuilt using old photographs, sketches, and a fair bit of architectural detective work. The result isn’t just a reconstruction—it’s a celebration of memory, pride, and the Polish knack for making beauty out of rubble.

The colourful facades of the buildings in the Rynek

Kombinat and other colourful buildings of Plac Solny

The stunning old town square

The Town Hall (Ratusz) is a Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece dating back to the 13th century, complete with an astronomical clock and decorative flourishes. The adjoining Salt Square (Plac Solny) is filled with flower stalls, and the whole area had a laid-back, beer-sipping vibe.

Naturally, we joined in. Two beers later, we were fully acclimatised—and had already spotted our first dwarf: a cheeky little fellow clutching a camera near the Town Hall. One down, 300+ to go. These cheeky bronze figurines are scattered across the city—some climbing lampposts, others pushing wheelbarrows, and one suspiciously lounging near a pub. Legend says they’re a tribute to the anti-communist Orange Alternative movement.

The Gothic Town Hall (Ratusz)

The Gothic Town Hall (Ratusz) of Wroclaw

Mexican, people watching and meandering

Dinner was Mexican (because why not?), paired with wine and a front-row seat on the Rynek to watch the world going by. But we couldn’t linger as dusk was approaching and there was a mission ahead. A mission involving bridges, islands, and one very elusive lamplighter.

Mexican nosh with a top people watching view

The Wrocław lamplighter: a cape, a hat, and a bit of stalking

Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Katedra św. Jana Chrzciciela)

Plaque showing the destruction of the cathedral area of Ostrów Tumski in WW2

Ostrów Tumski at dusk

Ostrów Tumski is Wrocław’s oldest district which was once a separate island and the cradle of the city’s Christian history. We crossed bridges, passed an open air craft beer festival, dodged boat ride touts, and finally reached the Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Katedra św. Jana Chrzciciela)—a towering Gothic beauty rebuilt after WWII with twin spires that pierce the sky. Looking closely we could still see bullet holes in the stonework.

Patiently awaiting the lamplighter in Ostrów Tumski at dusk

As dusk approached, we perched on a statue outside the cathedral doors and waited. And then—like a scene from a Polish fairytale—he appeared. The lamplighter. Cloaked in a cape and hat, he emerged from his gas van and began lighting the street lamps one by one. We stalked him like Victorian ghosts, watching each flicker of flame bring the cobbled streets to life.

Lamplighter in Ostrów Tumski at dusk

This lighting of the lamps manually isn't street theatre, but a living tradition dating back to 1846, when the city first installed gas lighting. While most European cities retired their lamplighters long ago, Wrocław kept the flame alive—quite literally. As one of only two cities in Europe to still employ a lamplighter, I am not going to lie - he is one of the main reasons I wanted initially to go to Wrocław in the first place. But how has Wrocław managed to preserve this tradition you ask? Well it seems Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) remains under the ownership of the Catholic Church, which is why its gas lamps were never replaced with electric ones.

What a wonderful experience it was to shadow this poor man. It really did feel very other worldly and fairytailesque.

Lamplighter in Ostrów Tumski at dusk

Evening Spritz and street serenades

With the lamps all lit in Ostrów Tumski, we headed back to the Rynek to celebrate our successful lamplighter pursuit with an Aperol Spritz under the Town Hall. A pianist played, singers sang, and the whole square glowed with that kind of atmosphere you wish you could bottle. Wrocław by night has a wonderful mood not to be missed.

Summer evening vibes on the Rynek, Wrocław

Check out this YouTube clip to take in the wonderful Wrocław night vibes.

Morning light and mathematical marvels

Next morning, we rose early-ish (breakfast scoffed with gusto) and returned to Ostrów Tumski via Tumski Bridge (Most Tumski) to see the area bathed in morning light. We wandered up Cathedral Road, admiring churches like the Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St Bartholomew—a rare two-storey Gothic church built in the 13th century.

Ostrów Tumski in the morning sunshine

Tumski Bridge (Most Tumski)

One of the many dwarfs of Ostrów Tumski

Eventually, we crossed Most Uniwersytecki (University Bridge) to the University of Wrocław. Founded in 1702 by Emperor Leopold I, the baroque interiors of the Aula Leopoldina are jaw-dropping with gilded stucco, heroic frescoes, and enough cherubs to start a choir. We scaled the Mathematical Tower (Wieża Matematyczna), once used for astronomical observations, now offering panoramic views of the old town’s terracotta rooftops and spire-studded skyline.

Aula Leopoldina, University of Wrocław

Mathematical Tower (Wieża Matematyczna)

Markets, antiques and penitent perspectives

Coffee and cake beside the Fencer Fountain (where a bronze swordsman guards your caffeine) followed. Tucked beside the University of Wrocław, the Fencer Fountain (Fontanna Szermierza) is one of the city’s more playful landmarks. Installed in 1904, it features a naked bronze student with a sword in hand standing atop a pedestal, and was designed by Hugo Lederer in 1904. Local legend suggests Lederer lost his clothes and belongings in a drunken card game with fellow students, only keeping his rapier. The statue therefore is a symbolic cautionary tale about the risks of gambling and excesses, according to the University of Wrocław's Instagram. The sword is often stolen by students and is frequently replaced. The fountain itself was a gift from the university’s fencing club, and is now a favourite "Insta" spot for coffee breaks and selfies.

The Fencer Fountain

Fencer Fountain coffee was followed by a wander to the Targi Market Hall (Hala Targowa)—a 1908 beauty with steel arches and stalls selling everything from pickles to pomegranates. This historic indoor market was built in 1908 and is known for its striking brick-and-steel architecture and lively atmosphere. Designed by Richard Plüddemann, it was one of Europe’s first buildings to use reinforced concrete trusses. Today, it’s a bustling spot for fresh produce, local delicacies, flowers, coffee and crafts. In addition, located in the historic basement of Hala Targowa, you will find the really cool Targowa. This is a stylish gastropub offering 16 taps of Polish and international craft beers, alongside a menu of modern Polish cuisine. The space features exposed brick, copper accents, and long communal tables—perfect for relaxed feasting.

Targi Market Hall (Hala Targowa)

Having shopped ourselves out at Hala Targowa, we retraced our steps back into the heart of the old town, stumbling through a charming open-air antiques market en route.

Our final ascent was to the Penitent Bridge (Mostek Pokutnic), suspended between the towers of St Mary Magdalene Church. Legend says it’s haunted by the ghost of Tekla.

According to local legend, Tekla was a vain and lazy girl who preferred dancing and frivolity over traditional domestic duties. As punishment, she was condemned to sweep the Penitent Bridge every night. Years later, Martynka, a kind-hearted young witch, saw Tekla’s suffering and decided to help. She took Tekla’s broom and flew to the Market Square, where she met a wizard who had lost his wand. In exchange for finding it, Martynka was granted one wish—and she used it to free Tekla.

Tekla and Martynka on the Penitent Bridge (Mostek Pokutnic)

Today, bronze figurines of Tekla and Martynka stand on the bridge, symbolising both the cautionary tale and the compassion that ended it. Tekla is shown sweeping (a small pile of zlotys have been gifted by sympathetic tourists), while Martynka gazes at her with empathy—perhaps a reminder that even legends need a little kindness now and then.

It was the perfect metaphor for Wrocław: whimsical, warm, and slightly surreal.

Departure: grudging goodbyes

And just like that, our whirlwind visit ended. We trudged back to the station, full of plans to return. Wrocław is still a hidden gem—but not for long. We’ll be back. And next time, we’re staying longer, or at least until we’ve met every dwarf!

A parting gift from one of our new found Wrocław chums

All images are subject to copyright. Images can be purchased from R Mac Photography

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