Cold War, Socialist Realism, Nuclear Bunkers and Dystopian Art - Visit Nowa Huta!

 

The giant gates at the entrance to the Sendzimir Steelworks, Nowa Huta, Krakow

Enthusiasts of George Orwell, "1984," "Brave New World," and similar works will be captivated by Nowa Huta. This district stands in stark contrast to the historic old town of Kraków, portraying a Socialist Realist utopia. Nowa Huta is one of just two completely pre-planned Socialist Realist cities globally, serving as a testament to the social engineering of the Soviet Empire. The area warrants as much attention by visitors as Kraków's old town, but as yet, is not part of the average tourist's itinerary. It seems sad that many people visit Kraków and will simply hang out in the old town, make a day visit to Auschwitz and the Salt Mines then leave. Yet areas such as Nowa Huta hold just as much historical significance.
Aleja Róż, Nowa Huta, Krakow
Before Nowa Huta was built, this area was occupied by farmland and the village of Kościelniki. The construction of Nowa Huta began in 1947 with the vision of creating a completely proletarian community that would stand in contrast to the decadent bourgeois lifestyle of its neighbouring city, Kraków.
Nowa Huta was built on prime agricultural land

The Soviet Union funded the construction of Nowa Huta, intending it to be a model city for 100,000 residents, showcasing the workers' strength. The architects incorporated various design elements to address safety concerns prevalent during that era. For instance, the wide streets were designed to prevent fires from spreading. The tree-lined boulevards were strategically placed to absorb the impact of a NATO nuclear bomb. The city's layout was cleverly constructed as a hidden fortress with numerous hiding spots for guerrilla warfare in case of a western invasion. The grand buildings reflect an impressive, labelled style known as Socialist Realist architecture.
The impressive Socialist Realist architecture, Nowa Huta, Krakow
Grand alleyways and hidden nooks to withstand NATO attack
Nooks and crannies to conduct guerrilla warfare

According to legend, the construction of Nowa Huta was quite a project with workers housed in tents during the depths of the bitter winter cold in the chaos of post war Poland. There are even ghost stories of the less fortunate worker's bodies being buried in the very foundations of the buildings.
The central point of life in the settlement revolved around the immense steelworks. Indeed, Nowa Huta directly translates as "New Steel Mill." However, they were more commonly referred to as the "Lenin Steelworks," and employed 40,000 workers at their peak, making them the largest steelworks in Poland, producing over 7 million tonnes of steel annually. Currently owned by ArcelorMittal, they have been renamed in honour of the scientist and engineer Tadeusz Sendzimir.
Despite the original designers' aim for Nowa Huta to symbolise proletarian strength and the New World Order, ironically, it ended up playing a role in the downfall of the regime that established it. The high concentration of steelworkers in Nowa Huta made it a key player in the Solidarity movement. Street protests and clashes with the police during the 1980s contributed to the momentum that ultimately led to the overthrow of the Communist regime.
Nowa Huta

Getting there

To explore Nowa Huta, you have several options. You can opt for a tour in an iconic Trabant car, a symbol of Eastern Bloc life, through "Crazy Guides". Another choice is to book a Communism Tour with "Krakow Tours". For a more immersive experience, consider touring with "Nowa Huta Travel" local experts. This not only includes a comprehensive district tour but also a visit to underground shelters built for crisis management beneath the steelworks. Imagine the chance to truly experience the Cold War from the Warsaw Pact viewpoint. Unmissable! Do it before the crowds discover it. Nowa Huta Tour
However, if you don't fancy a tour, it is very easy to simply jump on a tram to the district by yourself and conduct your own tour. You might even consider hiring a bike and cycling there. There are well signposted, separate cycle lanes all the way. 
Plac Centralny, Nowa Huta, Karkow

What to see?

If you are starting your solo tour, the best place to begin is by getting off the tram at Plac Centralny. This location serves as the heart of Nowa Huta, with the district spreading out in a sunburst pattern from here. Interestingly, this square was initially named after Stalin but is now known as "Ronald Reagan Square" in an ironic twist. Surprisingly, Reagan is recognised for his significant role in ending the Cold War. 
Straight away you will be greeted by the imposing grandeur of the Socialist Realist buildings, which are truly remarkable.
From Plac Centralny, make your way to Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż), the main street. Incidentally, don't miss the chance to visit the old-style milk bar named Bar Mleczny Centralny on this street to immerse yourself in 1980s nostalgia. Probably the most authentic milk bar still existing in Krakow.


Aleja Róż, Nowa Huta
Street plan, Nowa Huta
Nowa Huta life
'Old style' cafe
Lenin lives!
Wide tree lined streets to stop the spread of fire and cushion a NATO nuclear blast
Summer - Nowa Huta style
A short stroll from Aleja Róż, you'll find the IS-2 Tank and the Military Museum situated at os. Gorali 23. The tank is a massive reminder of the harsh realities of World War II (it played a role in the Battle of Bautzen in 1945) and the tense era of the Cold War.

IS-2 Tank
From this point, backtrack along Aleja Róż towards Plac Centralny. Be cautious as you cross the tram lines and roads, then turn left onto al. Jana Pawla 11 towards the Kino Swiatowid (cinema). The cinema now serves as a museum dedicated to Poland during the Communist era and provides exhibition space known as the Nowa Huta Museum. One of its notable attractions is the opportunity to explore the preserved nuclear shelters beneath it. This offers a captivating journey into the grim period of the Cold War and the constant threat of a full-scale nuclear attack from the west.

 Kino Swiatowid
The dark days of the Cold War

Nuclear bunkers

Nowa Huta itself has 250 nuclear shelters under residential blocks, schools and hospitals. However, those located under the cinema were the largest, capable of holding several hundred people. On show are air filtration systems, protective wear against radiation, communication equipment. giant blast proof doors and propaganda posters assuring the poor victims of a nuclear attack that all they need to do is have a shower to be rid of radiation. Still, it is a lot better than any government protection offered to residents in the UK in the event of a nuclear attack!! (Remember "Protect  and Survive!). 
Coupled with exhibits are comprehensive displays in English detailing life in post war, communist Poland.
Gas masks and air filtration systems
Blast proof doors
Communication and cleaning up post blast
Air filtration systems
Eek!
  Dealing with radiation victims propaganda
   Dealing with radiation victims propaganda
Operating the bunkers

Steelworks gates

The next stop on your tour should be the gargantuan steelworks. To do this, jump on a tram at Plac Centralny that travels up al. Solidarności. At the end of this long boulevard are the entrance gates to the works. These won't fail to impress! Constructed on an enormous scale, they herald the main access point to the works. Unfortunately, unless you have special permission, or are attending a function or concert that has been arranged in the canning factory, tourists cannot proceed beyond this point. However, if you happen to be there during a change of shift, you will witness an Orwellian scene that would thoroughly inspire the Lowry in you. Swarms of workers cascade their way to the tram and bus stops which are serviced by a variety of huts and stalls serving beer, hot dogs and zapiekanka. Alternatively, visit on a Sunday. The place is deserted but it means you can wander around without being harassed by traffic.

One of the giant gate houses, steelworks entrance, Nowa Huta
The Steelworks entrance

For tourists, it is now possible to visit some grand, marble rooms in the gatehouses as well as bunkers, an underground tunnel and Warsaw Pact war rooms beneath them. The local foundation for the promotion of Nowa Huta is a good starting point for booking a trip. Fundacja Promocji Nowej Huty
These buildings are very austere and contain plush conference rooms, marble staircases, offices where you can still listen in to recordings made of local informers grassing on their neighbours. Like many public buildings in Nowa Huta, nuclear bunkers exist beneath them and as part of the tour you will be able to visit secret command posts equipped with nuclear fallout maps, phones and their own air filtration systems powered by bike! This is a fascinating glimpse into the world of the Cold War from the Eastern Bloc viewpoint.
The images below are what you will see if you organise a Kombinat Steelworks Offices and Shelter Tour.
Underground tunnel connecting the two gate houses for use in a NATO nuclear attack

Warsaw Pact underground command centre

Which way is the wind blowing the nuclear fallout?

Pedal power oxygen for the nuclear bunkers

For the proletarian bosses only


Steelworks offices in the giant gatehouse

Underground nuclear attack command and communication point

Tracking the fallout from a nuclear attack underground

Listen to real recordings of informers squealing on their neighbours here

Staircase in steelworks offices

Meeting room for the proletarian bosses

Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery

One place not to miss whilst exploring Nowa Huta is the Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery. This is housed in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre which is located very close to Plac Centralny at Ulica Jana Pawła II 232.

Zdzisław Beksiński (1925-2005) is one of Poland's most internationally renowned and controversial painters of the 20th century. He is famous for his emotionally charged, large, and almost luminous canvases that portray grotesque figures, death and apocalyptic landscapes. The Beksiński Exhibition in Nowa Huta consists of 50 of his most definitive works displayed in a dark room, in which the paintings themselves emanate the only light, with grim sounds humming and death knells reverberating around you. It certainly evokes a dystopian air which very much suits the contents of the exhibits. This is an experience not to missed. 

While you are in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, it is worth checking out any other exhibitions that are on. The World Press Photo winners are regularly on show here for example.

Location: Nowa Huta, Kraków, Poland

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