Going Krackers for Christmas in Krakow

Krakow Christmas market Christmas stalls picture at top of post attributed to:- Silar Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported

Typical Krakow Christmas Market stalls (see bottom of post for picture attribution)

Cheese stall in the Krakow Christmas market

Polish Oscypek cheese stall Krakow Christmas market

Travel forums are buzzing this time of year with folks on a mission to find out if a city's Christmas market is a must-see, and guess who's often in the spotlight? Yep, Krakow!

These days, it feels like every corner of Europe is sprouting (LOL) Christmas markets, and in the UK, the media often loves to drop their top ten lists of festive hotspots.

So, what's the scoop on Krakow's market during the holiday season? Is it worth packing your bags just for a taste of its holiday spirit? Stick around and let’s unwrap the details!

Meaty offerings - Krakow Christmas market

Festive scenes at the Wawel Krakow

Getting into the authentic festive spirit

Having not perused every Christmas Market in every European city - I can't pretend to be an expert on which city would offer the best. However, what can be said in Krakow’s favour is that it has the luxury of one of the largest central squares in Europe in which to set it up. The spikey gothic columns of the St Mary’s Basilica and the chocolate box baroque buildings offer an atmospheric backdrop that many cities would envy. What also goes in its favour is that it runs in tandem with some pretty old festive Polish traditions which lend an air of authenticity to the atmosphere. In addition of course, there is the Polish climate which often obliges with some of the white stuff to dust the quant wooden huts and stalls. What could be better than sauntering amongst the smells of barbequing sausages, mulled wine and sugary treats to the sound of gentle carolling by children and a sprinkling of fresh snow?

Christmas vibes on Krakow's main square

Giant Krakow sign - always good for those Insta shots

The market itself is usually set up and running by the end of November and will continue until the 1st of January However, this does not mean the festivities end at this point. This is because the 6th of January is Dzień Trzech Króli (Three Kings Day - Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar) which is an official holiday with compulsory Mass. So in a lot of ways, Krakow’s Christmas may well last a lot longer than other cities. In fact, the tree and decorations will remain beyond the end of January, officially until the 2nd of February. As a festive fan, I am all for this! On a more serious note though, it makes Christmas in this part of the world less of a crazy "Hallmark holiday" materialistic orgy.

Christmas Market vibes

Festive, wintry Krakow at Christmas

Kracking start to the festivities

To get things really underway in Krakow, there is the annual Krakow's Szopka parade (Christmas Cribs). These are ornate nativity scenes/mini theatres which are handmade. To look at, they often seem to be small replicas of Krakow buildings (most notably St Mary’s Baslica) which are decorated to look shiny and festive. In fact, they are so well made and intricate, it is difficult to believe they are actually hand crafted.

Traditionally, they were made by masons whose work in the autumn had been curtailed by the weather and helped them while away the idle days. They really are pretty impressive though, and the best time to view them is the first Thursday of December where the crib constructors display their creations around the statue of Adam Mickiewicz in the Rynek (main square). The best are chosen to go on display in the City of Krakow Historical Museum at number 35 the Main Square (where you can also view the most impressive cribs from over the decades).

Krakow Christmas Szopka

One of the many winning Szopka on display - a unique Krakow tradition

St Nick's Day

Next on the festive calendar is December 6th. This is because in Poland this is Santa’s name day (Mikołaj - Nicholas) and is when all the children in the city receive gifts from him. The tradition goes that children leave St Nick a letter on their windowsill on the night of the 5th for him to pick up and leave their requested gift behind the next morning.

The true meaning of Advent (and it isn't chocolate calendars)

Although the four week build up to Christmas Day itself – Adwent (Advent) - is supposed to be a time of refraining from alcohol, partying and drinking, there is little evidence of this happening at the Christmas market. The organisers must simply assume there will be enough heathens and tourist gluttons to cater for on a giant scale to make it all worthwhile.

Enjoy vast wooden barrels from which lashings of grazniec (Polish mulled wine - pronounced Gshzah-nee-ets) are served. (Recipe for grazniec) This is powerful stuff and I am always convinced that a sneaky shot of vodka gets slopped into it. Still, it is just the ticket for lending a euphoric air to staggering amongst the brightly lit trinket stalls. Additionally, the Poles uniquely also have a liking for mulled beer! Good luck with that – not to my taste I am afraid.

Also on offer are stalls serving barbequed Oscypek (smoked sheep cheese from the mountains), huge chunks of bread slathered in lard (smalec). Actually this is really tasty - the lard is light and offers a bacon flavour from the lardons in it, and has less cholesterol than butter. In addition, the market is a proper celebration of barbequed golonka (pork knuckle) and kielbasa (Polish sausage).

Classy festive trinkets for sale in the Krakow Christmas Market

Long wintry shadows on the Market Square

Golanka and kielbasa

Beautiful Krakow Christmas market setting

Sweet treats at the Krakow Christmas Market

Golanka and kielbasa at the Krakow Christmas Market

Golanka and kielbasa and much more!

Christmas Eve

As December 24th arrives, children excitedly search for the first star to appear in the evening sky. Its appearance marks the beginning of a grand 12-course feast for families, reflecting the number of apostles and believed to usher in prosperity for the upcoming year. Traditionally, the festive table is adorned with straw beneath the cloth, symbolising the manger where Jesus lay. An extra place setting is also prepared for any wandering travellers who might knock on your door—perhaps even a visit from Jesus himself or a departed relative, which adds an eerie touch!

The celebration starts with the sharing of a thin wafer known as Oplatek. Even pets and farm animals receive a piece, as legend says that if they consume Oplatek on Christmas Eve, they will gain the ability to speak in human voices at midnight, though only those pure of heart will hear them.

While its roots are pagan, this tradition also connects to the significance of animals around Jesus' manger.

After the meal, gifts are exchanged, and many people head out to attend midnight mass.

Christmas Day

Although Christmas Day is not as significant as Christmas Eve, it still involves visiting family and friends to enjoy food and drinks together.

A must-see during this festive season is the impressive nativity diorama located in the Bernadine Church at the base of Wawel Hill. It takes from mid-November to set up and showcases a sprawling scene of traditional village cabins, workshops, and farms, complete with moving parts. This remarkable display evokes a sense of Christmas from a bygone era that is often overshadowed by the commercialised version we typically encounter today.

Bernadine Church Nativity Diorama

Nativity diorama

New Year (Sylwester)

New Year's Eve presents a wide array of choices for visitors and the atmosphere really does start to ramp up with music pumping from party boats plying up and down the river Traditionally, people enjoy an evening meal, and many restaurants create special menus for the celebration (be sure to make reservations in advance).

The Krakow Philharmonic hosts gala concerts featuring Strauss favourites along with other well-known melodies. At midnight, you'll be treated to a spectacular display of fireworks throughout the city, followed by countless opportunities to dance the night away until the early hours of the morning. Best places to view the fireworks are either on the main square itself or on the banks of the river.

New Year's Eve at the Christmas market

Krakow Philharmonic New Year Gala Concert

Bohemian vibes - Plac Nowy New Year

An alternative option to bringing in the New Year on the main square, is to make your way to Plac Nowy in Kazimierz Jewish district for more bohemian vibes.

Impressive stage for the New Year's Eve concert being assembled in the main square in Krakow

New Year's Day

On New Year's Day, the fun continues. If your hangover allows, make your way to the Mały Rynek for noon to witness the Krakow New Year run. Two distances can be entered - the Dragon 5K and the Joyful 10K, but the best thing about going to watch this event is that it is a fun packed spectacle due to the participants being bedecked in some pretty impressive fancy dress costumes.

Krakow New Year's Day fancy dress run

Three Kings Day

If you are hanging around in the city for longer, the 6th of January provides yet another spectacle. This is holiday of Three Kings Day or Dzień Trzech Króli which marks the end of the festive season. The three Kings being celebrated are Kaspar (aka Casper), Melchior and Balthazar and are the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth.

Prepare yourself for a vibrant and exhilarating celebration with not one, but THREE thrilling parades! Each of these colourful processions are led by its own majestic king or wise magi. First on the agenda is the Red Procession which symbolises Europe. It kicks off from the Wawel Castle at 11:00am, right after a mass at the Cathedral at 10:00am. Next, is the Blue Procession, representing Africa, which takes to the streets from Plac Matejki at 10:30am, following a mass at St. Florian's Church. Finally there is the Green Procession, which stands for Asia and sets off from Plac Sikorskiego at 11:00am.

All three parades unite at the Main Market Square around 11:15am for festivities and carolling. If you are there, make sure you get involved by adorning a free cardboard crown that many volunteers are eager to thrust at you, and get involved in the sing song.

Snow, frozen rivers, castles and Christmas - what more could you want?

Three Kings Day in Krakow - Dzień Trzech Króli (6th January)

So, all considered, go ahead and visit Krakow for the Christmas Market. It is wonderfully atmospheric and most importantly, authentic. As a bonus though, you will be absorbing the yuletide, winter season of one of the most vibrant cities in Europe. Just remember to pack your thermals!

Christmas stalls picture at top of post attributed to:- Silar Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported

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